Jul3

British Columbia Part 1

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Day 49 (June 20) - Vancouver to Lake Errock, 67 miles

After almost a week of vacation and very little cycling, we started our journey east across Canada. We made our way out of Vancouver through various suburbs. A couple of hours into the ride, Nick got his first flat tire when he ran over a giant screw.

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The cityscape soon changed to rolling countryside and we could hardly believe we were just in a big metropolis a few hours before. We ended the day’s ride in Lake Errock, at “The! Campground”.

We were all settled in when we saw another cyclist pull up. His name was Karl and he had just completed a 30 day loop around BC. He took a look at our route and gave us some great information on the days to come. It’s interesting to see how other cyclists travel. Everyone has different systems and priorities. Karl, for example, chose to travel on back roads without maps, using only a compass. We asked him if he saw any bears along the way and he casually replied, “Yes, many. Too many to count. Yesterday I was on my bike daydreaming when I came across a bear 2 meters in front of me.” Then he showed us pictures to prove it!

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Day 50 (June 21) - Lake Errock to Hope, 34 miles

We had anticipated lots of rain through Oregon and Washington, but it never came. Our rain gear finally came in handy today. It started raining cats and dogs about an hour into our ride, and we arrived in Hope completely soaked. It didn’t look like the weather would clear up anytime soon, so we decided to get a motel room.

We knew that our first big pass was right out of Hope and it scared us enough to go through all of our stuff to get rid of any excess weight. Some of the things that didn’t make the cut:

  • solar panels and battery chargers (we’re not that far away from civilization after all)
  • old cell phones that don’t work in Canada (stupid locked phones)
  • Kismat’s running shoes (he’s not running any time soon)
  • Mai-yan’s small nail clipper (maybe having a big one and a small one was a little much)
  • Nick’s trike owner’s manual (he knows how to use it now)
  • a set of travel sized speakers (we go to bed too early for parties with loud music)
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There was lots more that we either threw away or sent home. The stuff must have been really unnecessary because we can’t even remember what it all was. In total, we sent home 10 pounds of gear and trashed another few!

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Day 51 (June 22) - Hope

It rained through the night and we knew it wasn’t a good idea to try to climb a 4000+ foot pass in the rain, so we decided to stay put in Hope. We spent the morning lounging in the motel room and thought we would stay there another night. When we went to pay for the second night, they decided to raise the rate significantly. Despite Kismat’s best negotiating skills, we were not able to find a compromise. So, off to the campground we went. Luckily at this point, it stopped raining so it wasn’t too torturous to get out of bed. We spent the rest of the day taking care of chores and mentally preparing for the climb.

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Day 52 (June 23) - Hope to Manning Provincial Park, 47 miles

We woke up to a bright blue sky and were really happy that we hadn’t attempted the climb the day before. It was time to finally face some serious climbing and it started right out of Hope. We got into our granny gears and started pedaling for the next five hours. There was a nice break in the middle, going through Sunshine Valley.

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After that it started climbing again until we reached the top of Allison Pass. It was a moment of joy and relief all at once. We made a simple dinner and were off to bed.

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Day 53 (June 24) - Manning Provincial Park to Princeton, 50 miles

We made our usual breakfast of hot cereal and peanut butter toast and set off for another day of riding. There wasn’t any drinking water at the campground, so we decided to stop at a lodge to fill up our water bottles. We were kind of procrastinating, knowing that we had another short, but steep climb coming up. It wasn’t hard to convince ourselves that we needed a second breakfast. We headed for the restaurant at the lodge and filled up on pancakes, eggs, and hash browns. By 10:30, we felt ready to start our day!

We made it over the climb without a problem (except another flat for Nick) and the rest of the ride was downhill. It was smooth until the rain started once again. We were soaked when we got to Princeton and were ready for another motel room when the sun peaked out. By the time we ate and went grocery shopping, we were dry and decided we didn’t need the motel after all. We camped next to the Similkameen River and basked in the late afternoon sun.

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Day 54 (June 25) - Princeton to Keremeos, 45 miles

We had a fun ride into Keremeos, mostly downhill and with a tailwind. Despite a rain shower half way through the ride, we arrived to camp in 100° weather. We were surrounded by fruit orchards and stopped for some treats at some of the local fruit stands. They had delicious cherries, peaches, plums, apples and apricots.

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Day 55 (June 26) - Keremeos to Osoyoos, 35 miles

The ride today was short but really hot. After climbing Richter Pass, we rode down into the town of Osoyoos. We found it to be a strange cross between the Palm Springs (desert resorts), Napa Valley (wine country) and Oxnard (fruit farms and a large seasonal population of fruit pickers).

We found a place to call home for the night, and then we went into town for a cold refreshing beverage. Not 1 hour into our stroll, who do we see milling around our bikes?? Bruno! He had already caught up to us after his 10 day stint in Seattle. We were more than surprised as were sure we had another couple days on him. We said hello and off he went to set up camp at “French Hill” with all the fruit pickers from Quebec. He assured us he would find us again in the next couple days.

Jun22

Oh Canada

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Day 41 (June 11) - Port Angeles

We planned to spend a day in Port Angeles because we needed a place to call home to receive some packages. Kismat had a hole in his sleeping pad that couldn’t be fixed so we ordered a new one. A & K also ordered a new stove because the old one was burning everything they cooked. And most importantly, everyone was waiting for Aimee’s new tires.

We checked out the town and periodically went back to the campground to pick up the packages as they trickled in. Both the sleeping pad and the stove arrived as expected, but the tires never came. After some investigation, we discovered that the tires that we had overnighted hadn’t even shipped and would not arrive for another two days! The order was cancelled and the quest for tires was unfortunately back on.

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Day 42 (June 12) - Port Angeles to Victoria, BC, 10 miles

We caught an early ferry into Victoria, British Columbia, officially crossing into Canada! We had to go through customs, which we didn’t think would be a big deal. A & K went through without a problem. M & N went up to the customs agent together and thought they were on their way out when Nick was pulled into an interrogation room. After an intense twenty minutes of questioning, Nick emerged and Mai-yan was called in. The agent was quite serious and questioned their intentions in Canada. Because Mai-yan is a Canadian citizen and Nick isn’t, they wanted to be sure that they were planning to return to the US and had a way to support themselves while in Canada. It took some convincing, but the customs agent was finally satisfied that they wouldn’t become hobos on the streets of Canada.

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Victoria was a much bigger city than we expected. It was a big change from the small towns of Washington. There weren’t any options for camping in town, so we got a room at the Traveller’s Inn. The staff was exceptionally accommodating, especially for a group coming in with four bikes and lots of gear.

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We spent the rest of the day exploring Victoria and were excited to stumble upon the REI of Canada, Mountain Equipment Coop (MEC). We were also still on the hunt for new tires for Aimee. There are lots of bike shops in Victoria and we finally found the tires in the first bike shop we walked into. Oh happy day!

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Day 42 (June 13) - Victoria to Saanich, 25 miles

We wanted to spend a bit more time exploring Victoria, so we took a scenic ride through town and along the coast. The ride started at Mile 0 of the Trans-Canadian Highway, which crosses all of Canada and is a major part of our route. We rode through some wealthy neighborhoods and ended up north of Victoria in an RV campground by the water.

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Day 43 (June 14) - Saanich to Nanaimo, 54 miles

Shortly after leaving the campground on our way to take a ferry, we met another cyclist who was nice enough to lead us to the harbor. The ferry ride took us from Brentwood Bay to Mill Bay, where we hopped on Hwy 1 toward Nanaimo. The route took us a bit inland and through wine country. We took some time to sample some local wine.

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Day 44 (June 15) - Nanaimo

We had a lazy morning and decided the best thing to do was to keep being lazy for the rest of the day. We packed up a picnic and headed for the park. After feasting on olives, cheese, bread, crudités, pasta and potato salad, fruit and sipping wine, we peacefully napped in the shade. For dessert, we sampled the famous Nanaimo Bars.

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We made our way back to camp, still full from our feast. In the early evening, we had given up on making dinner, but by 9pm we were hungry again. Because it was still light outside and we didn’t have to be anywhere early the next morning, we started cooking. We made corn on the cob, scalloped cheesy potatoes, and garlic green beans. It was a day of glorious gluttony.

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Day 45 (June 16) - Nanaimo to Vancouver, 24 miles

Today we took a huge ferry into Horseshoe Bay, just north of Vancouver. This one was more like a cruise ship, with multiple levels and several car decks. The bike parking was located on the bottom deck along with the semi-trucks and tour buses. We felt slightly out of place next to these giant vehicles, the very same ones we try to avoid on the road.

We found an RV campground in North Vancouver, immediately next to Lions Gate Bridge, which leads to downtown Vancouver. We were excited to spend the next couple of days in the big city.

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Days 46-48 (June 17-19) - Vancouver

We spent a couple of days in Vancouver, doing lots of sightseeing and eating. We found that it was a very bike-friendly and international town. There was lots of construction going on in preparation for the 2010 Olympics. We even got to have dinner with Bruno and his mom, who were visiting.

Some highlights of Vancouver:

  • riding through Stanley park
  • delicious Indian and Chinese food
  • Granville Island Market
  • lots of bike paths and streets with dedicated bike lanes

We thoroughly enjoyed the last few days. It felt like we were on vacation, not riding very much and wearing regular clothing. We are now getting ready for some serious climbing as we head towards Rockies. We hope that the weather and wind gods will be with us through this next challenging portion of our journey.

We also wanted to take a moment to thank everyone for all the comments on the blog! We really enjoy them and will try to start replying to them.