pics #707 - #787

Friday March 18th - Yellow Rhytmic Seed
Departing the cool hippie house of Ania and Agata under a soft rain. Finally leaving Kraków, feeling happy to be on the road again. Starting with short climbs on secondary roads and dangerous descents, it is bumpy. I take it as a training for the KKH in Pakistan. Going through villages, I recognize the smell of coal burning in chimneys, dogs barking at my approach. After lunch in a restaurant -I have to get rid off my złotys- the road follows a bike pad by the Raba river, it is more relaxed. When it gets late, I stop to in a wood, near beehives. The almost-full moon is hidden by clouds.

           I expected a ghost to show up

Saturday March 19th - Red Resonant Serpent
Early on the road, I am welcomed by fog and sleet to make the day fresher. I am cycling up over the fog and then down under. Taking a second breakfast near a church. In that village there is a shop in clearance : sweets but also nuts and cereal bars, what a chance! After a late lunch in Nowy Targ, there are only 20km left to Zakopane. I have to get away from the main road because it is a highway. Again going through small villages, some dogs left free run after my appetizing calves. It is training for the monster dogs in Turkey... I end up totally off road in a field and take the opportunity for a "3000km" picture in the snow. Soon back in a path, then on a road, and more cyclist unfriendly dogs. When directions re-appear I notice how I got totally disorientated. With caution I choose to follow the long and well indicated road. With the cold and the rain, there is risk of frost and I better not be on steep downhill when it happens. It is a long way along the river, cycling at night through the pine forest. Late at night I reach Zakopane, a touristic mountain station for summer and winter sport. Restaurant, clubs and pubs in the main street, hotels around it. There is something authentic here that is being spoiled by tourism. After diner I get to the hostel for a well-deserved rest.

           In the fog, in the cold

           3000km, out of the road, lost in the fields

Sunday March 20th - White Galactic Worldbridger
It is hard to wake up but I push myself to breakfast in the hostel. Then I finish my złotys with a cheese and an orange. Now towards Slovakia. It is cloudy but a top of a mountain appear here and there. The climb is long, steady, I am getting over 1000m high today.

           Zakopane

            At the border, changing mountain side, the weather is better and I am facing a wonderful snowy peak. How calm, how grandiose is that! To people asking me why I do a trip on a bicycle, here is the answer: exactly for such an experience. And it is just training for the Pamirs... In Slovakia I like the good straight roads, the long downhills. Around a hundred kilos of bicycle-luggage-human enjoy covering the distance at great speed while admiring the Vychodné Tatras revealing their beauty. The magic goes on as I cycle at the feet of the highest chain of the Carpatians. To go to Poprad, turning my back to the mountains, I see the sun going down on the snowy peaks in the side-mirror . Without a doubt the most beautiful day of my trip, so far. With my host Vladka, we speak Spanish, we both need practice. In a few words she updates me with the last world's news. Western powers on war in Lybia, nuclear catastrophe in Japan... After contemplating the beauty of nature the contrast with the ugliness of mankind is unbearable. "What I feel? Tears is in my eyes, you're looking in the eye of a devil's will" - B.Cantat

          

           Mountains, I missed you

Monday March 21st - Blue Solar Hand
A break of cycling today. I mail a packet to my parents, getting rid of one kilogram of luggage I can't resolve my self to give away. Trying to be free from stuff is hard and just as one small step. Emotional and mental luggage is in some prospect way heavier and harder to get rid off... From the city many railroad tracks lead to villages at the feet of the Tatras. I walk on a path of pine trees, it remembers me my trekking holidays in family, some 15 years ago and more. It is cold in the forest and the way is getting full with snow up to a point where it gets dangerous to go on without spikes or sticks. I have to turn back after having had a recall of the feeling to be in the mountains, feeling my being taken by the imposing mountain. In this natural peace, my mind is troubled and angry at the news I heard yesterday. Can human being change for good, is there a chance? The words of Thich Nhat Hanh that I read on my way back in the train are redirecting me to inspiration, good feeling. He is a fantastic teacher: simple and clear.

           Forrest hike

          

Tuesday March 22d - Yellow Planetary Star
In the morning I guide Vladka in yoga practice. She tells me of places of interest on the way to Budapest. My stay here was agreeable especially with the smooth bass lines of her room-mate, a professional musician. Going West to Ružomberok seemed to be flat in the valley. Not at all! It goes up and down all the time. But with a warm sun, the wind in my hair and the view on the Tatras on my right, I am pleased. I camp near a lake where the Black Váh and the White Váh pounce. Out of the lake flows a unique river, the Váh, I followed it up to Žilina on my way to Poland. Clear stary night.

           The Vychodné Tatras

           In Slovakia, saints are protected from the rain

           It looks better in real than on the 1, 2  and 5 Slovak-Euro-cents coin

Wednesday March 23rd - Red Spectral Moon
The weather is covered in morning but a strong west wind will blow clouds away as well as slowing me down. It is warm when I am in Ružomberok. Going south now, more the direction to India than West. A climb to the UNESCO world heritage village of Vlkolínec. I put the tent nearby, having plenty of time to practice yoga in the mountain before sun goes down.

           

           

Thursday March 24th - White Crystal Dog
Visit of the village of Vlkolínec, nice, looking almost too perfect, like a power-pointed model. Not stuffed with tourists at this time of the year, this is a good reason for touring in Winter. On the road for another long climb to a ski station, still working with the help of artificial snow. After offering myself a big lunch I go down toward Bansk´ Bystrica, for once, happy to have the wind against : it limits my speed. I notice that I have lost my neckband and this annoys me more than the bike computer. Instead of reaching Banská Bystrica directly, I take another detour adviced by Vladka to the village of Špania Dolina, with its peculiar covered stairway, which links the town square to the church. Another night of camping in mountains, under clear sky and blinking stars, hearing scream of animals which resonate in the valley.

           Vlkolínec

           Špania Dolina

Friday March 25th - Blue Cosmic Monkey
Camping under the stars, in remote areas, being awaken by the singing of birds: how beautiful can life be! These few days since Poprad totally satisfy, the landscape, nature opening to Spring carry such beautiful energy. It is nurturing, we do not need much in such an environment. I am soon in Banská Bystrica, finally a cute Slovak city with a beautiful central place. In a beauty shop I find some organic food, rather hard to get elsewhere, fun to find Peanut butter near shampoo and lipsticks. On the main square, a military orchestra plays, while soldiers and people looking important slowly bring flowers to a monument. Today is the celebration of the 66 years of the liberation of the country from WWII. I have my meal hearing the anthem.

           Opening to the sun

           Banská Bystrica: main square

           Banská Bystrica: liberation celebration

My route goes to Zvolen, against the wind and under a bright sun. Then I head to the eco-village of Zajezova, following the itinerary the association provides. It is a difficult road, with little indication inducing doubts about having taken the right path until I met a man that I had spoken on the phone with. The last part is still to come, pushing the bike on steep tractors roads. Funny: a dog has been indicating me the way. Night has fallen when appears the light of Sekier. Last hundred meters to the farmhouses. I am greeted in French by Mirka, Slovak, and by Tristan, a young French in European Voluntary Service. We gather at diner and I meet Sandra the German. In the dwelling of Sekier, no permanent member of the eco-village live, only temporary volunteers run it.