26-28: in Praha, Vršovice
November 30, 2010
Monday November 29th - Blue Magnetic Eagle
Tuesday November 30th - Yellow Lunar Warrior
pics #222 - #251
Sunday November 28th - White Cosmic Wizard
Waking up not too early for having breakfast, but finishing it early enough to join my host for lunch. I don’t know if Marek’s lunch is traditional but certainly unusual to me : raw carrot, raw garlic, cheeses. Czech have some creamy smelly cheese, very bad for Pitta, that I’m going to devour.
My goal for the day is to meet Helena the yoga teacher, I just need to find in which of her three studios she is. The snow from yesterday has almost disappeared, leaving it a danger for circulation. I am completely disorientated around Národní Museum, despite the good map given by Marek, the compass stays very useful. And as I am usually lucky, when I enter her studio in Balbinova, Helena is about to give a class. Perfect timing to take a first yoga class in weeks. We start with pranayama before an Iyengar-style asana practice. She’s an impressive teacher, giving accurate instructions in English AND in Czech.
Waking up not too early for having breakfast, but finishing it early enough to join my host for lunch. I don’t know if Marek’s lunch is traditional but certainly unusual to me : raw carrot, raw garlic, cheeses. Czech have some creamy smelly cheese, very bad for Pitta, that I’m going to devour.
My goal for the day is to meet Helena the yoga teacher, I just need to find in which of her three studios she is. The snow from yesterday has almost disappeared, leaving it a danger for circulation. I am completely disorientated around Národní Museum, despite the good map given by Marek, the compass stays very useful. And as I am usually lucky, when I enter her studio in Balbinova, Helena is about to give a class. Perfect timing to take a first yoga class in weeks. We start with pranayama before an Iyengar-style asana practice. She’s an impressive teacher, giving accurate instructions in English AND in Czech.
Estate Theater
After that I am looking for a restaurant with traditional food and reasonable prices, close by Váklavská Náměstí. It’s sort of a self service, where staff can translate a bit in English. Czech cuisine likes dumpling: fruit dumpling, vegetable dumpling... and meet, and beer of course. Pilsener from Plžen, and Budweiser from České Budějovice amongst many others. I have a salad, a beef-cabbage-bread, a fruit dumpling with cream with a beer. It's good, filling my belly enough to calm my hunger. When coming back at my host, I decide to avoid cycling in Praha. Even with an unloaded bicycle, I do not feel at ease in the dense traffic with risk of falling because of frost, and the pavement is truly bad for my knees.
Kostel svaté Ludmily
Monday November 29th - Blue Magnetic Eagle
I wake up late, abducted by mailing list writing late at night. The goal of the day is to collect the stove pump sent by Arnoud in DHL office. Walking in the snow to there takes me most of the afternoon. I come back with vegetables, so I can cook. Let's be healthy sometimes! Having the stove pump is a good achievement, I can get rid of the gas stove, and cut on costs because fuel is cheaper than gas cartridges. The money which is not yest spared, is soon invested in pastries and chocolates.
Hurray for the stove pump shipped by the hero of Spakenburg !
Tuesday November 30th - Yellow Lunar Warrior
On foot, in a white city, I am heading to the castle, on the other side of the Vltava. I stop for a big bowl of soup first, in the same place than yesterday.
A park on the way
Kostel svaté Ludmily
Václavské Náměstí
Out of a labyrinth of streets, I am suddenly on the border of the Vltava river, facing Praha Castle, and Karlov Most - Charles bridge-, lit by the sun going down. Wonderful first vision of these monuments.
A typical view of Prague
Entrance to Hradčany from Karlův most
I climb up to the castle, through streets and stairs, astonished by the rich architecture that surrounds me. The top of the hill where the castle and the cathedral are, offers beautiful panorama on the city... It’s magic. I am already taking date to go back to the city at another season. With this astonishing quantities of monuments and panoramas goes the touristical trap, restaurant staff greeting me in Czech and then in English, the so-called real absynth bars, souvenirs shops and so on. On my way back, by night, it’s by chance that I arrive on the old town square with its astronomical clock and a church full of pinnacles. There’s a band playing medieval music to give animation to the Christmas market.
The medieval experience in Staromětské Náměstí
Orloj on Staromětské Náměstí
After diner, we chat with Marek who has been a helpful host, by advising me well on what to see. His direct questions about my trip are somewhat destabilizing. As if I knew the answers, as if I did not know I am running away. Ya Rayah !