43-45: to Linz
pics #300 - #328
Wednesday December 15th - Blue Self-Existing Monkey
Using the trick of leaving with my host helps me to be on the road early again. In České Budějovice I get to follow the wrong river: the Malsé instead of the Vltava, that I notice after a little distance. Not a big problem, today is a short step. Fortunately because the weather is bad. Snowy roads on which snowplows regularly pass, -6ºc with head winds, under a falling snow that moves in sleet, which feels like small arrows stinging my face. Besides reasonable knee pain, water freezes in my bottles. Still at 13.00 I have reached Český Krumlov, soon booking a travellers hostel in the historical center. It is an amazing location. A castle dominates a meander of the river, while the old town is inside the meander, so curved that it is almost an island.

Český Krumlov: a Church -white and blue tower- and the castle

Český Krumlov: outer side of the meander

Český Krumlov: the castle gallery on the bridge
Český Krumlov 's historical center is on the UNESCO world heritage, therefore touristy: even in this weather, there are far-east Asian tourist groups. The city is filled with houses offering pension, bar, restaurant, hotel. Due to low season, I am given a whole dormitory for myself in the travellers’ hostel. There I can cook lunch, eat Christmas cookies, take rest, eat Christmas cookies, cook diner, eat Christmas cookies, take a walk outside to the castle at night, eat Christmas cookies, and eat Christmas cookies.

Cookies, an efficient medicine in extreme weather conditions

Český Krumlov by night: view from the castle gallery

Český Krumlov: Kostel svatého Víta - Church St. Vitus
Thursday December 16th - Yellow Overtone Human
A fantastic sunshine starts the day, justifying to take pictures of the historical center again, adding them a bright light!

Český Krumlov: panoramic view with the Sun in guest appearance
Along the Vltava, I ride smoothly while singing songs, in direction of the Tchequo-Austrian border, with -13ºC ! Bottles are filled with hot water, to prevent that it freezes too soon. The view is beautiful, here a small village by the river, there a castle on a rock. Meanwhile the weather is getting covered and a soft snowing starts, which have the temperatures rising to -6ºC.

A village in the distance

Rožmberk nad Vltavou: Hrad -castle-
In Vyšší Brod, I take a break for groceries, buying food which will be more expensive in Austria and finishing the last Czech Korunny in a restaurant with a German talking waiter. After this long lunch break, I quit the river to start the ascension to the border, regular pedaling rhythm, slow and steady, the temperature decreases to -9ºC as the altitude rises to a maximum of nearly 850m after passing the border. In Bad Leonfelden, when calling the youth hostel guard to open for me, all the talk is done in German. What a relief to understand some of the language, to be able to communicate and mostly being finished with climbs. Tomorrow consists in going down to Linz and the Donau. Cooking and relaxing in a whole hostel for myself.

Ich leren Deutsch in der Judenherberge
Friday December 17th - Red Harmonic Skywalker
The step today should be short and easy, I wake up late and leave late after a long yoga practice and big breakfast. Definitely need to work harder on self-discipline. The first descent is great: Going fast on a clean road, through a majestic fir forest. Having a thought for their many unlucky brothers which are grown for a pair of years then sold for a month of "Christmas magic” and then burnt. How man controls nature by destruction, and misses her beauty. How people control to get happiness and only get away from it: HAPPINESS IS THE WAY.


On a secondary road, I find climbs and snow again, I get tensed when going down, it is rather steep. Feeling released when finding the main road again, indicating 10km remain to Linz. Soon, the big descent starts, continuously down, steep, turning, I am braking regularly but no resting possibility. Focused on the road I only notice that I entered the city when crossing tramway rails and narrowly avoiding crashing against a car that didn’t see me arriving from the upper street.
And then it is flat and the unidentified rolling object weighing nearly 100kg can finally stop, after what has been a strong adrenalin shot! A turn and I am on a bridge, releasing tension by crying my happiness. I made it through to the Donau, hurray! Now I can rest and lazily follow the river until the Black Sea if necessary. Such a milestone gets me sitting at a table with coffee and cookie. At my host Richard, he makes the biggest room of his apartment available for me. I appreciate the intention, even more knowing that he's busy for exams beginning of next week. Very nice from him to still offer his hospitality.

One of the brave bands guarding Linz from the plague of guinea pigs

Linz: light games on a modern building
